the tales of an 18 year old, living and teaching in the central american country of Honduras... and all the danger and fun she meets along the way.

Friday, 5 February 2010

Costa Bombbbbaa Part 1

Well HELLO again!

It’s been a while, sorry... I just keep thinking that there is nothing major to update and then all of a sudden there is SO MUCH. I’ll try and keep them shorter and more regular AFTER this one :)

Okay, so we had just returned from Roatan to the new house...and we were still in spare beds, not in our designated rooms. Luckily, Mercedes travelled to Lepaera to collect all the stuff from the old house and bring it to this new one, so we ended up unpacking the lorry and moving our stuff into our new rooms :) I ended up with a WONDERFUL queen bed, and a kinda metal frame style shelf and rail for my clothes! So now Emma and I have our own rooms, which is so awesome, it’s nice to finally have somewhere to call MINE instead of living out of a suitcase...

So there were no pupils at the school the last time I wrote, and it kinda remained that way... one of the pupils (also called Emma) turned up each day, but nobody else did, so it was kind of a lost cause... Mercedes ended up cancelling school until the 1st February. Her reason for no children coming any more was that all the fathers drink away the money. Sure Mercedes, EVERY father was doing the same thing, which is why NOBODY came to school... uh-huh.

So school was cancelled til February, which was good with us, seeing as nobody was coming anyway. I used the time to paint my room, two walls red and two walls cream, and to dedicate myself to go on a diet! Emma decorated her room with pictures and so on too, they both look really awesome now :)

Still during our time off, we went to Gracias (our staple weekend escape...which is becoming a much more common way of escape...) and hung out with Holly. Laura and Renske came from La Union also because Lena, the newest PT volunteer (and Holly’s partner) was finally arriving! She had chosen the 8 month Particip8 course rather than the full year, hence her arrival at the beginning of January. As usual I spent the weekend on the internet in Guancascos (they have WIRELESS!), we all went for Chinese at the restaurant which really delicious, our favourite meal out location! They serve portion sizes big enough for 4 people, so you can imagine the mistake we made the first time we went... at least you can take stuff home with you!

Wednesday 13th January, I got a package from Grandma! It contained (definitely past tense) Haribo sweets, Percy Pigs, and Wham Bars! I also got a magazine and a few puzzle books to contain my boredom in San Juan...she’ll never know how grateful I am for those! Unfortunately still haven’t received the big package from Mum, cos the big things take ages to arrive.

As I said, we were not teaching until February, but Mercedes asked us to walk around the whole of San Juan handing out leaflets for the school...uuuft. Emma and I traipsed around the ENTIRE town and surrounding suburbs handing little bits of paper out to every man and their dog, and sticking signs up in every pulperia on every corner...tiring work, but it had to be done! The main issue I had with that was not actually the walking, it was more the fact that walking through the dirt roads to people’s houses poses ‘natural’ issues...stray dogs, violent dogs, aggressive dogs, and dogs in general...mothering cows and their calves, aggressive bulls (one chased me right into someone’s house), marshy bog land after rain can always be a good laugh too, in flip flops.

Saturday 15th, we were ready and packed for our COSTA RICA VISA RENEWAL TRIP! We took the bus to Gracias where we spent Saturday on the internet and relaxing, to get the bus to San Pedro Sula on Sunday. Mercedes had asked us to take a ‘box’ to her daughter Andrea in the city, so we obliged, as she described it...’is not so heavy’. Oh how wrong... we dragged this thing off the people carrier into Holly’s house in Gracias, then had to haul it to the bus station the following day, that was a good laugh.

We took the bus on Sunday lunchtime to San Pedro from Gracias, and ended up having to convert to a different bus at Santa Rosa, and almost forgot ‘the box’. This new bus had many a smashed window and bucket seat and ended up jam packed full of people, but by this time we’re used to that kind of thing. We arrived in the city and a friend of the family came to collect us in his taxi, after driving around the whole Bus Terminal ignoring our frantically waving arms (when they weren’t on the box) for about 20 minutes. The man took us to Damaris’s house (remember them? Mercedes sister, the family we stayed with the DAY we arrived in Honduras?!) and we managed to shift the box onto his responsibility to take to Andrea at Lourdes’s house.

It was really amazing seeing the family again, Damaris, Javier, Javier, Fernando, Damaris and Debora (they like repeated names in this country). They had all changed SO much, as had our perception of their home... I remembered looking at the shower, totally horrified, on arrival, the floor was of poor quality, and it just looked impoverished by my standards... OH HOW THAT HAS CHANGED. Their home is lovely! It was warm and inviting, it was clean (by Honduran standards) and it was NOT impoverished! Not to mention the change in the family, Fernando has grown a lot, Javier jr has lost weight and Debora looks like a right young woman :) they had all lost weight significantly because of their HERBALIFE diet, which apparently we may end up following in the near future...

We arrived at their home to a warm welcome of Javier making baleadas with his mum, and we got hugs and kisses from the whole family :) We had to attempt to get dollars that evening before we left for Costa Rica, so Emma, Javier sr, Fernando and I took a taxi to the city mall. We passed a synagogue which was truly stunning (yes, a Jewish place of worship, here?! I couldn’t believe it!) and eventually arrived at the mall. I literally, metaphorically, had a heart attack. I felt completely lost and awestruck by how URBAN it was! There was an ESCALATOR! This mall was full of bright lights, colourful shops selling millions of shoes, food malls, clothes shops, gadget shops... there was a model in the centre of the walkway containing a Wii and Guitar Hero! There was a Lacoste shop, a Zara... let’s just say it was NOT what I expected, and not what I was used to either! I felt so tiny because we’d been stuck in San Juan for so long, I’d forgotten what it was like to be amongst fashion and money and beauty...

We traipsed around the slippery, shiny mall floor looking for a cash machine that actually contained dollars, but to no avail. We headed over the road about five minutes away to another city mall, passing a McDonald’s, and even better, a SUBWAY (the food store, they don’t do trains or underground in these countries). Javier and I had a nice little joke about Italian BMTs with all the salad and Chipotle Southwest sauce...i promised myself I would get one in San Jose! Unfortunately there was no cash machine with dollars here either, so we had to make our way back...after passing a Guess shop too :P

We returned to the nicest baleadas I’d had in a long time (and I eat them A LOT – remember what they are? Large flour tortilla with refried beans, scrambled eggs, liquid butter and sometimes hard cheese. I added some chilli sauce too, for good measure). We were really exhausted that night and knew that Monday morning would start at 3.45am, so we hit the sack pretty soon after bed.

Our taxi (another family friend) was due to arrive at 4am, so there we were, all settled on the couches, barely keeping our eyes open, waiting for the taxi. We had to be 45 minutes early for the bus leaving at 5am to check in...and 4.15am came and went...eventually, at 4.30am the taxi pulled up, and then we had to make the JOURNEY to the bus station, so we didn’t arrive there until about 4.45am! We scrambled to the Tica Bus terminal, after I lifted a few Lempiras at the station cash machine. We should really have known, by Honduran time we were still early at quarter to 5 haha...

We bumped into a couple of English girls in the queue as we checked in, and smushed our way onto the bus. I was knocked out for 5 hours til we arrived in Tegucigalpa (Honduran capital city...if you could call it that. It’s the equivalent, we all know Glasgow is better than Edinburgh [yeah Kirsty] yet it’s not the capital...the same with San Pedro Sula hehe...). We had a 15 minute stop here where they were selling bogging baleadas and microwave reheated pizza, which I DID buy, and then we were back on the bus, with slightly protesting tummies. The journey to the border was rather uneventful, apart from some TERRIBLE movie called FIREPROOF (don’t even think about watching it unless you can’t get to sleep or want to vent your anger on the TV set, it was atrocious). We watched Fast and Furious (I think) and then Nacho Libre which was actually pretty entertaining in a mindless sort of way.

We arrived at the border and we both got ripped off for dollars, we ended up paying an extra 3 Lempiras per dollar cos Emma didn’t understand what the man was doing. Oh well, what’s done is done. We drove for a further 3 minutes until we reached the Nicaraguan side of the border HAHA (funny to me cos I was like, a minute and a half drive over the border of 2 countries) where we all filed out again. I got an orange (they’re amazing by the way, a woman sits with a massive plastic bucket full of oranges and a knife, and peels them, then cuts through it about a third of the way from the top and hands it to you... they’re so delicious, and mega cheap) and chatted to the English girls again, a woman called Libby who lives on Utila (one of the Bay Islands) and is a dive master for some place called Old Morgan’s or something like that. Was a good chat :)

We got back on the bus and nothing happened and we arrived in Managua, the capital of Nicaragua (I feel it’s my duty to inform you nothing happened because you may think I’m keeping something from you. Seriously, I tell you everything in this, as you can tell). The Tica Bus station was in the middle of a clearly bad neighbourhood...haha. So we walked out of the station and turned right, walked for 2 minutes to the end of that block and arrived at our hostel, after sorting out someone’s major organisation fail by putting Emma and I on different buses the following morning...

Our hostel was called Casa Vanegas, and it was decent enough, it had a low hammock in the wee tiny driveway, and a few different rooms, one computer with internet and some pretty cool backpackers! We got a twin room with a shower, fan and TV for $8 each. We met a guy called Harrison, from Austin, Texas, and we walked up to the pulperia to the left (in the Tica Bus direction... Harrison came from a different bus and arrived at the hostel coming from the RIGHT...and some guy in a car pulled up and was like ‘get the **** out of here, you wanna get shot?!” and all this kinda stuff in Spanish, and then we realised the hostel had a little sign on the counter that said ‘please leave the hostel and turn LEFT...’ which I think explains everything...).

So we went to the little shop and bought a few cans of beer and sat in a little food place and I had an enchilada! It was rice and cut up pork and vegetable in a thick pastry packet and deep fried ;) heaven.

So Emma, Harrison and I sat in the little cafe and chatted for a bit, then wandered home drinking our beers. We stood outside to finish them (not allowed beers or drugs of any kind in the hostel...HA) and then some guy who was helping Harrison and his mate find their way around Nicaragua came out of the hostel and was like ‘welcome to the tropics guys!’ and we got all happy and excited about setting out on our travels, bless us.

We sat on the patio area outside Harrison’s room and I met his mate Bobby who he was travelling with. We talked til 11.30pm about all kinds of stuff, especially religion. I’ve come to accept that it is a BRILLIANT topic of discussion to have with other travellers, and it always seems to come up... you get such an insight from the massive variety of minds and opinions and beliefs that travel the world. I love having those discussions and honestly I keep feeling better and better about my own opinion the more I talk, and the thoughts I have seem to make the believers happy too, they like questioning their faith or something. I don’t really know how to explain but the talks I’ve had with people about religion and deep stuff are often the best. This one was a particularly good one...though I won’t go into it, we’d be here forever as you can imagine (though by the looks of the size of this essay we’ll be here for even longer...) We talked about other things too, the vast size of Texas, how it is as big as France seemingly, and other interesting stuff.

The next day I was up at 5am for the 6am bus to Costa Rica. The journey to the border was uneventful, though the 2 border stops were really long, about an hour on each side... I saw some girl with mango and asked her where she got it, and she just gave me it. It was all lovely and cut up in a plastic bag, and after I’d finished hers I went and got more cos it was super cheap! The rest of the journey was pretty uneventful, and then we arrived in SAN JOSEEEEEE!

We got a taxi from the bus terminal to one hostel that was meant to be amazing, but it was fully booked. We met some other girls who were going to try and book in there too, so we all took a walk to the second place on the Lonely Planet list that appealed to us, a place called Hostel Pangea...we got kinda lost wandering around downtown San Jose in the dark, and ended up being directed to the hostel, which was behind a massive metal wall and a little door with a hole in it...

Oh my goodness this place is AMAZING. You walk in, and as soon as the doorman shut the metal door behind us, we were in pure bliss. This place was stunning, modern, and so welcoming. The walls had all been painted in amazing patterns that let your mind go mad, there was a big pool area, and lots of dorms, 5 computers down the stairs, and another 10 up the stairs. There were 2 bar areas (one with wooden tables and benches for food, and the other with cream couches almost exactly the same as ours at home) and a huge balcony overlooking almost all of San Jose. We could see lights up in the mountains from that balcony...

So we all checked in and got settled. In our dorm were 3 girls from Argentina, who were the epitome of beauty. We met some guys from Australia in the bar areas and ended up chatting to them for a while about their time in Cuba with their broken down rental car...

May I just add right now, I was up at 3.45 am on Monday morning, and 5am the following morning...Didn’t stop me going out this night though DID IT?!

We hung out with the Australians, only 2 of whom made any real impact, Martin was hilllaaarious and reminded me completely or Martin Hislop from home. And then Liam, because Emma gravitated towards him a little :p (she’ll hate me for writing this...) anyway, they were the only 2 names I can really remember. They were talking about ‘smug’ alot.

Smug:

Person 1: “I’m going scuba diving tomorrow” (has massive smile on ones face, bearing NO TEETH)
Person 2: “you SMUG pig.”

Person 1: “What are your plans for tomorrow?”
Person 2: “Oh, I’m going surfing” (sweeps hair back in Loreal advert style, radiates smugness)

Person 1: “So, Jen, what are you doing around these parts then?”
(after a lot of instruction and teaching of how to pull off smug)
Jen: “Oh, I teach English to underprivileged children in Honduras...”
Person 1: stares awestruck and impressed at Jen’s smugness.

ANYWAY, we all decided to head out to El Pueblo, the club/pub/bar complex nearby, which turned out to be entirely empty of anyone but the staff at the bars, and us... We got some tequila at the bar while the American girls did air skipping rope dancing. Liam, Martin and I headed round to ANY other bar considering this one was expensive and only consisted of the group that came with us. We found a really cheap bar where the boys decided they wanted to do ‘tequila suicides’. For those who don’t know what they are...

Tequila Suicides
1. Sniff salt up nostril.
2. Down shot of tequila
3. Squeeze lime in eye
4. Kick person opposite’s shins.

I filmed this for them (yeah they offered for me to participate, I just took the shot haha, but they asked me to film them performing this idiotic ritual...) which was absolutely hilarious to watch, but I learned from their experience and will definitely not be doing it. Ouchhh!

I ended up getting some pizza cos this stuff looked amazing, and that is one thing I really really miss, a goooooood pizza! (Apparently we’re going to make homemade ones with Mercedes or something, great)

By this time everyone was thoroughly bored and ready for bed, especially us what with the amount of travelling we’d been doing, so we headed back to Hostel Pangea and off to bed :)

The following day, I had to check out, then check back in (pointless) but I met a girl called Joan from the Netherlands who was a good laugh, she worked as a surf master and had been around the world working for different hostels, she offered us a summer placement in a surf hostel in Spain whenever we want, which would be awesome in the coming years when I’m a poor student...

She introduced us to a friend of hers called Aron (just one ‘a’) and he knew of a local market in San Jose, so we all took a little trek up the bustling city streets to the market, which was indeed, pretty cute! I decided to be as efficient a buyer as possible and hunted for the best things, compared prices, then walked the entire length of the market back the way, bargaining with the best ones. In the end I got a really beautiful scarf for $11, managed to get Emma in on the scarf scene too, so she got one as well, and then Emma and I both got a pair of earings made from coconut shells...i love them!

We headed to a nearby bakery, the smell radiated up the central avenue, and Emma was immediately drawn in, with Aron and Joan following quickly behind. They each got a HUGE doughnut with toffee icing stuff INSIDE it (it had a hole in the centre too...this was a good looking piece of baking) and chocolate and sprinkles and stuff on top. I didn’t get one, I just drooled over theirs!

Then, I decided I’d saved my appetite enough and after questioning Aron on the nearest Subway, thought it was definitely time to be a tourist...and so we headed there for a footlong Italian BMT on Italian cheese and herb bread, with lettuce, olives, green peppers, onions, chipotle southwest sauce on one half and barbeque on the other, cheese and toasted ...with a fanta to share with Emma and a cookie. It cost the equivalent of $9, which I didn’t realise until I’d purchased it. I am not kidding when I say I DID NOT REGRET IT.

However, for the moment we shall take a brief pause (for a few days) and I will write more of this blog and post it soon. Bet you’re all relieved, eh?

Love, Jen xxx

3 comments:

  1. Hey Jen, yet again a fantastic blog entry- had me laughing out loud a few times- particularly love the smug conversation and Tequila suicides. keep 'em coming- maybe you want to switch career paths and write??
    Love you honey

    Mum xxx

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  2. Excellent as ever- love the Tequila suicides- I can see Thomas doing those (though not until he is older and tries his first drink!)
    S xxx

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  3. hahaha yeah i can see tom doing them too. typical BOY.
    hahaha aww thanks mum, dont get me all mixed up, i was tihnking i might have a flare for that but NOOOOO im not good enough, i dropped adv english REMEMBER? hahah thanks though, so pleased y'all enjoyed reading :) new one up now too! xxx

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